Build an archery target stand from recycled materials

A homemade archery target stand gives you a dependable place to hang foam targets without buying a commercial frame. Reclaimed timber, reused battens and discarded pallet parts can make a useful archery stand, provided the load-bearing pieces are sound and the base cannot tip.

That suits Australian backyards, council ovals and community club grounds, from suburban Melbourne to coastal Queensland. Community clean-up days and local salvage shops can yield hardwood offcuts, while Bunnings or Mitre 10 sell metric bolts, washers and fresh timber when a reused piece is unsuitable. For many Aussie weekend makers, it is a satisfying have-a-go project, but sun, coastal salt and summer heat make outdoor durability just as important as strength.

Clubs can make this a communal build rather than a solitary chore. A stand that is easy to assemble, inspect and move is useful for training days, competitions and regional gatherings. Whatever the setting, inspect every part and make the first test without an arrow.

Choose strong reclaimed components

Choose sound dimensional timber or hardwood for the uprights and top rail. A reclaimed pallet frame can supply feet and spacers, but avoid hollow-core panels, split firewood, thin slats and timber with nail holes where the target’s weight will pull. Old treated pine of unknown treatment is unsuitable if you may need to cut or sand it, so leave it out.

Check every screw, bolt and bracket for corrosion, damaged threads or straightness. Use matched washers and locknuts on exposed joints, and never rely on glue alone to carry a loaded target frame. While adhesive cures, a guide to watching football online can provide a harmless break, provided your phone and drink stay well away from the timber and fasteners.

Design a stable footprint

Scale the frame to the target, not to the available scrap. The uprights must hold the target’s bottom edge clear of the ground, while the top rail and bracing must stop the frame leaning under impact. Run the base front to back, and increase that depth as well as the side-to-side spread so a solid hit cannot drag the stand toward the archer.

Compare two practical base layouts:

Base design Best for Main benefit Main limitation
Wide A-frame Lightweight foam targets Quick to build with few parts Needs ballast to resist repeated impacts
Rectangular runner base Heavier targets or regular use Resists tipping and twisting Uses more timber and careful joins

Whichever layout you choose, fasten the feet so they cannot fold inward, and add ballast only after the unloaded frame passes a push test. Sandbags or stacked blocks can help on grass, but secure them and keep them out of walking paths. At an attended range, confirm the stand’s position under the range officer’s direction.

Assemble the frame and braces

Cut the components slightly oversize, mark every joint and drill pilot holes before driving screws. Bolt the uprights to the runners, passing each bolt through both pieces where possible; through-bolts resist loosening better than a single screw. Add the upper cross rail with two bolts at each end, then check that the frame is square by comparing diagonal measurements.

Fit a diagonal brace from the archer-side end of each runner to the mid-height upright, creating a triangle that resists forward movement. A lower cross-brace between the uprights limits side-to-side racking. Sand only sound, sealed timber, round sharp edges and cover protruding screw ends. A cordless drill, a spanner and a square are enough for a basic build, so workshop machinery is unnecessary.

Mount the target safely

Use purpose-made foam blocks or stacked foam sheets on a rigid cardboard or plywood backing. Secure them with wide zip ties or purpose-made target straps rather than relying on tape alone. Keep drainage gaps at the bottom, and make sure the target and its ties do not cover the stand’s bolts or slide onto an edge.

Stand height and placement should also suit the archer’s technique and the rules of the venue. A comparison of Mediterranean and three-under draws is useful when setting target height and stance because a repeatable release should not be compromised by cramped footing. Place the target squarely in the intended arrow path, keep spectators in a separate waiting area and secure every tie before anyone nocks an arrow.

Test the stand outdoors

Load the completed frame with the target and intended ballast, then push gently at the top from the side. It should not creep, twist or lift at the feet. Tighten any movement at its source rather than compensating with a cable or extra strap. Before the first session, inspect the face for exposed wire, cracked foam and loose backing, and follow the range’s normal setup and shooting commands.

Weathering is the next test. Rain can swell reclaimed timber, coastal moisture can corrode fasteners, and strong UV can weaken plastic ties. Store the stand dry when possible, wipe salt from metal parts and replace ties that have faded or become brittle. Check for fresh splits around foot contacts after heavy rain, and retire any member that has become cracked through or visibly thin.

Practical recommendations for a reliable build

Equipment works best when it supports club life, and the coaching, gatherings and regional events outlined in Inseme Cargese’s about the club page show why a practical, reusable stand can serve both training days and social sessions. A compact checklist keeps the recycled pieces from becoming a safety problem:

The next practical step is to assemble the unweighted frame on the lawn and complete the push-and-twist test before adding the target.